Tyres make the biggest difference to performance for the least expense.
Simple Selection. Ask yourself two questions.
-Will I be riding in Soft? Hard? or bit of everything? The answer will mean S/T, H/T or I/T.
-Will I be riding off road or on a closed curcuit / MX track? The answer will mean Tractionator or Terrapactor.
-Then choose the right size (consult bike owner's manual for recommendation) - also read below.
What S/T, H/T, I/T means.
S/T = Soft terrain (loose, sandy loam, pine forest, clay) great traction, shorter wear life.
I/T = Intermediate (mix of everything) all round traction, medium wear life.
I-H/T = Between Intermediate and Hard Terrain (hi speed Safari - Outback). Long wear life.
H/T = Hard Terrain (gravel roads, rocky fire trails, hard pack desert and sand). Extreme.
In other words, Soft, Middle, Hard and Extreme Hard.
Tyre Construction - What the Names Mean
Tractionator Series is very Heavy Duty and designed for long wear life.
-Super Heavy Duty ply construction
-Puncture Resistant casing
-Natural Rubber Anti Chuncking Compounds (S/T I/T has hybrid Natural/Synthetic, H/T I-H/T are 100% Natural rubber).
Any Tractionator has construction suitable for harsh conditions like desert racing, multi day enduro or long distance adventure riding. Tractionator series include Tractionator Desert H/T, Tractionator Enduro S/T & I/T and Tractionator X-Circuit (I-H/T).
Terrapactor Series is lite weight and designed for motocross.
Terrapactor tyres have:
-Light weight carcass.
-Sidewall and footprnit with rigid and flex zones.
-High Quality Hybrid Natural/Synthetic Compound.
Don't assume all tyres with the same size marking are the same, thanks to variations between different standards around the world (it would be nice if the world had one standard, but it doesn't). Because it's a lot of reading to explain, it's right at the bottom of this page.
The general rule is don't over tyre or under tyre the bike (tyre too big or too small).
Our tyres have very deep tread to give good wear/mileage. In general our tyres have a reputaiotn for very long wear which is our design intention. In some cases they might look as if they have worn quickly at first. This will be if the bike has a lot of horse power and has flexed the blocks a lot at first. Then the tyres settle in because the blocks reduce and stop flexing so much under power.
Tread blocks may increase in size as they wear to self protect in H/T and I-H/T.
Always consult the owner's manual. If you want improved off road traction and accept moving away from the manufacturer's recommendation, start by lowering pressure to around 18p.s.i. A popular off road inflation pressure is 15 to 16 P.S.I, and an extreme pressure for good traciotn can be as low as 10-12 p.s.i but increases the risk of punctures.
CRS and Profile.
We have taylored all our tyres to have the right CRS for the application - not just used the MX CRS for everything which is common because most focus on MX. CRS is the shape/curve (the contour) of the tyre across the tread that comes in contact with the terrain, and several benefits are obtained by applying certain CRS in some applications (including variable CRS).
CRS can be grouped in three basic catagories, which for simplicity we will label flat, round and pointed (to explain the idea). If you imagine a rugby ball and a soccer ball and how they sit on the ground; a flat CRS might be like a rugby ball on its side, round CRS might be like the soccer ball, and the pointy CRS might be like the rugby ball standing on its end. Whilst inflation pressure will vary behavior, CRS will significantly influence performance and each has distinct characteristics.
Flat CRS = wide flat tread - big footprint - good for straight line hook up and big horse power applications - long wearing.
Round CRS = smoothly curved tread section extending partially up the sidewalls - good for easy progressive cornering.
Pointed CRS = tread section with a narrow aggressive bite in the centre and extending up the side walls - good for very fast very tight cornering.
Why is it important? Because it influences drive traction, cornering traction and wear. A specific CRS matched to a specific application can give additional traction where it is most needed, or increase wear life to avoid tyre changes during an enduro, or for long adventure touring. A poorly designed CRS to an application can result in early wear. The behavior of each will have different performance characteristics when the bike is vertical or at various lean angles. In very basic terms:
||Flat CRS on the rear will have good drive traction because it makes a big foot print when the bike is vertical (it will hook up well),
||but traction will decrease as the lean angle is increased, and loss of traction at extreme lean angles as the tyre reaches the outer tread.
||It will also make the bike harder to 'tip' into a corner (the bike will not roll from side to side easily). If the terrain is soft, like desert racing conditions, this CRS can keep traction as lean angle increases because the terrain, the desert sand, moves under the weight of the bike, so the tyre is in effect always flat against the terrain.
Round CRS will do everything OK (average). It will hook up OK and tip into corners OK (bike will lean from side to side smoothly), but because the foot print is never that large, loss of traction in corners will increase with weight, speed and lean angle. Wear will be OK, but will wear quicker in long distance straight running.
A big problem in the past (even now) has been many enduro tyres are just a motorcross tyre with a different compound, but the CRS hasn't been taylored for off road so the tyres wear out too quick and cant handle fast tight cornering in hard terrain or rocky conditions.
Pointed CRS will wear quickly in hard terrain (because of the sharper foot print in contact with the terrain when the bike is vertical), and hook up less well in harder terrain, but it will â€śtip inâ€ť very quickly when cornering (the bike will change direction quickly and easily in tight corners â€“ will tend to fall into corners), and will have increased traction at more extreme lean angles (especially in hard terrain). This can be a good tool in dry conditions when the track is loaded with 180 degree corners, or for lighter enduro bikes (small bore 2 strokes and modern 250cc 4 strokes) for tight twisting narrow single trails. It also helps (on the rear) to get the bike into a power slide to create more drive around a flat corner.
Flat CRS will give longer wear and hook up well on hill climbs (if the bike is kept vertical) and straights, but steer slower which can add to rider fatigue if there are long twisty sections like tight single trails. If there is a lot of long straight high speed sections, it is less of an issue.
A pointed CRS will give quick handling and reduce rider fatigue, but the rear will tend to follow ruts if wheel spinning up a hill (to the point where the rear will follow the rut, which can cause the rider to drop the bike). If you have chosen this CRS, keep away from the ruts.
Don't assume all tyres marked with the same size are all the same.
There are presently seven different standards that can be applied to off road motorcycle tyres from different countries (USA, EU ETRTO, Scandinavian, Deutsche Ind Germany, Australia, Japan, UK BSI). They all say measurement is taken from the sidewalls (not the outer tread width). They don't all say the same thing about the same size. One major country doesn't even have a standard for a 100 series tyres (so they vary from one brand to another).
There is a lot of incorrect information (especially on the internet) which has resulted in some myths being quoted and requoted as fact. Here's an example. Some people say tyre sizing varies because some manufacturers measure from the outside of the tread, and others measure the outside of the sidewalls - this is rubbish. Another one is Old metric and New metric. For off road and MX, overall tread width (measurement from outer tread blocks that contact the ground) should be taken into consideration as well as tyre section width (size marked on the tyre - measurement of the part of the tyre that inflates) - because the tread width will be wider than the sidewall,
Be be aware that there is much more to choosing the right size than reading what is written on the sidewall (we didn't create the confusion - just trying to help by explaining it).
We have made some diagrams to help you see how sizing and how measuring on different rims (as the standards demand) varies and distorts when fitting to a a different rim (like the most common 2.15 inch rim). Pages (enlargement) and links are still under construction.